Go Paintless: Saving Original Paint Is Our Perfection

Dent Repair USA Services Winter Garden Florida

MV99105# FL State Motor Vehicle License 10575#: Vale Master Craftsman * 6601#: National Alliance * ARC Retail and Hail Master * Pre & Post Scan Vehicles Computer

Three Primary Services: * Paintless Dent Repair * Touch-Up * Scratch Repair**

How does it really work, then? it takes a lot of pressure to damage a vehicle's skin. To remove the dent, we must massage the metal from behind with hundreds of tiny pushes coupled with a series of small taps on the vehicle's surface.

Paintless Dent Repair (PDR)

, also called dent and ding removal is our primary service. Surprising to some, the paintless process is often different for each dent. This section will display the fundamental theories and general concepts related to PDR in the hopes that you understand the process better.

First, dents do not "pop" out.

I know that may seem like a ridiculous statement, but it's a misunderstanding that even our most astute customers make. The concept of "Just Pop It Out" is so pervasive it's puzzling; our best guess is that this is a mental lapse in response to the fear of cost. If dents popped out, dealerships, retail customers like yourself, auctions, and car rental agencies wouldn't need us, and our trade wouldn't exist. The truth is this: dents are difficult to repair, and you're hiring the artist, not buying a commodity, so choose wisely. Unlike other jobs, you don't get a second chance. Once a PDR repair has started, you cannot undo the errors created. This error led many to regret and anger when they discovered their cheaper way cost thousands extra, not to mention time dealing with insurance agencies and Automotive Body Shops.

Second, If we cannot get behind the panel, we are forced to use a glue pulling process.

Glue pulling on a professional level is nothing like the small online kits you may have already seen or been scammed into purchasing yourself (The adverts are everywhere on Google.com search). If not, you are one of the lucky ones. Unfortunately, glue pulling is very limited and isn't very effective on creases, body lines, or edges. When encountering aluminum automobile bodies, thicker gauges of sheet metal, and certain model's clear coats, glue pulling may be ineffectual or even dangerous. For example, the newer models of Subaru have a fragile layer of clear coat that reacts with any glue heat and can easily pull that protective layer off the vehicle. That is irrelevant to some customers since they will repaint if Paintless Dent Repair fails. In this instance, there is nothing to lose by the attempt.

Third, the hardware is only secondary to the expertise of the technician.

Meaning, you can have all of the hardware to perform the job, but if you don't know how to use the tools, it doesn't matter. We often get younger customers who think they can do it for themselves by watching a few videos online, and it always turns into a nightmare. If you find yourself in this situation, stop what you are doing and fill the form out, I may be able to get you out of the hole you've dug yourself into (unlikely). This problem is compounded by the barrier to entry into the retail Paintless Dent Repair market. Large Corporations like Dent Wizard, churn kids out of their program in less than ninety days. Do you want a kid in your driveway trying to learn PDR on your new vehicle? It happens every day, and the results are often tragic. This has turned many customers away from the Paintless option forever, yet they never really got to see what the process can do through the hands of a master. Regardless, we don't get paid for the hardware/tools; we get paid for the software/experience (i.e., My experience repairing a multitude of dents precisely like yours, every day for over two decades.).

In short, you don't need to worry about all of the ins and outs; we can do that for you, but we are happy to give you all of the informed options to make informed decisions about your repair.
Once we have determined that your dent can be repaired, we can assess if your dent can be repaired at our shop or in your driveway. Dentless repairs can often be performed at your location, but not always. To determine if a vehicle can be repaired with this process, we first require some information in the form of at least three images and some pertinent data about the vehicle. In many cases, the size of the dent is not as relevant as the location of the damage on the panel. That is, today's vehicles are wrapped in interior metal beams, sound deadening pads, wires, fluid tubes, motors, microchip processors, and a variety of sensors.

Automotive Touch-Up


We use a unique Touch-up method that goes beyond just brushing in paint.

We apply the paint, then wipe off the excess. Our method is the most perfect way to apply touch-up, and the results are amazing, but it's still not perfect. Our goal is to draw the eye away from the touch-up and make someone looking for it pass it multiple times before finally recognizing that we were there. However, some colors make that prospect more challenging and highly unlikely in some cases. Colors on either end of the spectrum tend to fair better with touch-up; black and white tend to be far better than blended colors — silver tends to be the most complex.

Automotive touch-up isn't perfect

because the human eye has 126 million light-sensitive cells, seeing over 100 million different color shades and producing over 10 million colors to the brain. The very best touch-up, with the most perfect lay-in, coupled with precisely perfect color identification, will still be very noticeable to the human eye. As a result, Bodyshops never repaint a single panel on a vehicle; they are forced to paint all surrounding panels. They affectionally name this "blending," but it costs you money, reduces the value of your vehicle, and damages your previously healthy panels. To repeat in another way, painting anything on a vehicle has devastating effects on the value because they are not just painting the damaged areas; Bodyshop's are repainting otherwise undamaged panels, rendering them on CarFax as damaged.

Too much of a good thing is usually bad

, and touch-up is no exception to that rule; when it comes to touch-up, we have found that less is often more. For example, it is common to find touch-ups on vehicles with five times as much product as required; all of that extra paint summons the viewer's eye when a smaller amount would avert it. So if our goal is to remain hidden, we should choose the latter method over the former. Here are a few contributing factors to poor quality touch-ups. First, the large brushes and applicators that come with most retail touch-up kits invite over application. If you desire to do the job yourself, it would be wise to get smaller touch-up brushes to achieve more detailed results. Second, most touch-up pens you can purchase at the dealership or online is a product that requires a long shelf life to be profitable. To keep a touch-up pen fresh and ready for use for decades requires additives; these additives affect the appearance of the touch-up as a shiny gloss effect. To mitigate this, we have additive-free colors with short shelf lives that must be replaced annually. However, the results are stunning in terms of visual appeal and cost.

Sanding and Buffing



Sanding and buffing are provided together, but they are separate enterprises.

That is, buffing has a variety of uses that have nothing to do with sanding and is a standalone service. On the other hand, sanding has two methods and is subordinate to buffing insofar as one cannot sand without buffing. It should be noted that our goal is not to solve the issue of swirl marks or to wash your vehicle.

Transfer is a term that refers to paint, plastic, or debris that has come into contact with an automotive surface leaving visible traces.

Compound is a form of wax with abrasive agents to remove imperfections on the vehicle's surface; it can be used manually or with the aid of a mechanical rotational pad to eliminate transfer; however, in some cases, this isn't enough, and sanding may be required. We employ two types of sanding to remove transfer, dry and wet. Dry sanding is used on larger areas for more aggressive applications; its name, as you may have already guessed, points to no liquid barrier being used during its process. The type of grit and material used for this process is unique only to dry sanding. Wet sanding uses a fluid barrier to ease tensions between the paper, sand, and the vehicle's surface. Wetsanding is often preferred to dry sanding's more aggressive nature.