Professional Paintless Dent Repair Pricing in Lakeland Florida
November 11. 2019 • Category: PDR Consumer
Hello, My name is Paul Whitehorn, Im a professional Paintless Dent Repair technician. Im going to give you all the tools you need to understand professional Paintless Dent Repair pricing, Right Now. Paintless Dent Repair in Central Florida and Surrounding Areas.
There are three primary categories that affect price.
1. Obstructions to your dent
2. The Location of your dent
3. The Size of your dent
Here are a list of common obstructions and their percentage costs.
#1 Laminated Glass 10%
Roll your window down half way and look at the top of your glass. If it has three ridges or groves you have Laminated Glass.This is triple sheeted glass that is very easy to break if any pressure is applied to it, due to the risks involved we charge slightly more for it.
#2 Behind Bracing 15%
In short, Dents behind bracing, limits our options, increases our risk, and doubles the repair time.
#3 Sound Deadening Pad 15%
Sound Deadening Pad keeps your vehicle quiet in the interior. this padding is a thick concrete substance that is applied behind the sheet metal. Sometimes we are able to push through it, and other times it must be removed and replaced.
#4 Body Line Dents 15%
These lines are sharp turns in the sheet metal that must be rebuilt and delt with separately. As a result we charge slightly more.
#5 Creases 20%
Creases are in a category of their own. They require a dent to be repaired from at least three separate directions.
#6 Aluminum Panel 30%
The amount of pressure required to dent them is 50-70% harder, which means they require 50-70% more direct power to repair them.
When adjusting them they flex and spring back into position with only minor changes.
They take twice or three times longer to repair so we charge more.
#7 Triple Layer Panels
These are zero access panels and often need to be glue puled from the surface. Again, it costs more time, energy, and resources.
Removal and installation of parts may be required to get to your dent. The list on this menu is not exhaustive, but these are the most common. (Just Read Through them quickly)
lets move to locations.
The location of a dent is just as important as its size. It helps a tech answer a few vital questions that can significantly impact pricing.
1. What do I need to take apart in order to reach that dent?
2. Will I have leverage?
3. Do I need to create access?
4. What type of metal am I dealing with: Steel, Aluminum, High Strength Steel, Aluminum Composite, etc?
5. Can this be done in a customers driveway or do I need it in my shop?
The Areas in Red are Very Difficult to Access and may require lots of removal and reinstallation of parts.
They also typically have triple layers, sensors, computers, and other vital components that need special attention.
Blue indicates difficult areas that may still require some removal and reinstallation but are more accessible areas.
Green areas are better from an access perspective, they indicate lower chance to Removal and reinstall parts, good access, which often means lower costs.
Fortunately the green areas are also where you are more likely to get a dent.
I have another video that covers all of these panels in great detail, but this is just to give you a quick snapshot.
The length is defined as a longest portion of your dent. Most dents start at a 99$ minimum charge for a 1 inch dent with no obstructions. Here is a more in-depth look at each inch.
1 inch = 99
Anything past 8 inches will be 25$ per inch.
The Width of a dent is 10% per every two inches.
The Depth of a dent is defined in millimeters and a
depth gauge is used to extract these parameters. This almost never exceeds 10% and is only reserved for very deep dents.
You now know the basic Obstructions and how your dents location can potentially affect pricing. Locations to your dent, and their costs
And what length, width, and depth of your dents and how we price that out
I hope this has been helpful.
If your seeing prices lower or higher than this, it should be cause for concern.
Your probably not getting a certified technician, which wouldn’t matter if you were hiring a lawn guy,
but todays vehicles are rolling computers and you want a professional
who won’t jeprodise the safety of your 30-120k dollar vehicle, to save a few bucks.
Be very diligent in choosing the right technician, not just the one who is the cheapest and most available.
There may be a very good reason why he is hundreds of dollars cheaper and available.
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