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Paintless Dent Repair

No, You Are Not Painting Over Your Dent Cheaper

Not-Getting-Painted-Cheaper"Perhaps your value structure needs some serious retooling. Perhaps what you want is blinding you to what else could be. Perhaps you are holding on to your desires, in the present, so tightly that you cannot see anything else—even what you truly need." Jordan Peterson


Attempting to compare a repaint to a paintless dent repairs value is no contest, it's not even the same sport. Repainting a vehicle is never cheaper than getting a paintless dent repair, even if the body shop quote is cheaper. Luxury items, like getting a minor dent repaired on a car by highly skilled artisans, don’t fall into the typical commodity category either, because there are varying skill levels with very different results. Like hiring a portrait painter, you can get a cheap stick figure drawn in pencil or a detailed oil painting — the prices will differ. So when looking for a paintless dent repair, choosing the right person for the repair is more important than a price point. 

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Five Reasons Paintless Dent Removal Says, "No!".

No-Paintless

Although Paintless Dent Repair can significantly improve and totally eliminate most dents and dings.
It does have its limits. Here are five major examples of when dentless isn’t an option for your repair. 

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How Does Paintless/ Dentless Dent Removal Work?




This is how Paintless Dentless Dent Repair Really Works

1. '''Direct leverage'''. Gaining access to the metal with direct force on the dent, from behind. This can be done behind your factory bracing, through sound dampening pad, and on body lines. This method traditionally requires removal and reinstallation of parts or the creation of access

and it works on metal, aluminum, and HHS.

2. '''Indirect leverage'''. Gaining access within the recess of a panel and using a bridge to affect the surface by creating a fulcrum.

3. '''Glue pulling'''. The process of pulling the surface of the damage with specially formulated hotmelt glue in conjunction with hardened plastic or metal tabs. Once the glue and tab are attached to the surface of the painted surface, it is either lifted with a slide-hammer or a mini-lifter. Typically, a slide hammer shocks the metal with a very strict upward jab, while a mini-lifter provides a more direct and slower progress upwards. The results will vary based upon the size of the tab, the type of glue that is used, and they type of puller used.

4 '''Tap downs'''. There are a variety of tap downs, but the most common are sharp to medium acrylic, which leaves light traces once the panel has been struck, but can easily be polished out. Medium aluminum which is used for more specific work. Sharp steel, which is used to slightly crush clear less that .5 of an MU which can be wet sanded out.

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